After a good breakfast - that's the norm at hotels now - of eggs, sausage, cereal, fruit yogurt and good coffee, we do the last run. We pass a herd, maybe 30, of beautiful pronghorn antelope, and a couple of coyotes digging at the edge of the road. A few hawks or falcons are returning, that's a good sign. But no grass!
We have a pleasant 60 second border crossing - welcome home to Alberta! - but gradually the sun gives way to clouds then rain and snow at the edge of the road. Not looking good. Snow is forecast all weekend in Calgary. But we have a tail wind so it helps Ted's diesel consumption.
We stop before the border to get gas and offload liquid, and I meet one of my ski buds in the ladies washroom, also returning after 2 months in Phoenix! It really is a small world.
We pull into our driveway at 3:15pm. There's 3 feet of snow in our side yard but our drive is almost clear.
The odometer says 45899km, we began last October at 30550km, so our faithful RV has done over 15,000km with only one oil change and blowing a resistor? I think we now know that we're not going to spend the whole winter in Calgary again.
Monday, April 18, 2011
Thursday, April 14, 2011
Apr 13 The final push north to home...
After a restful time to end our time in the south with our good friends, we start the journey north in sun. It is a magnificent drive up through northern Arizona and southern Utah, vast spreads of colourful mountains, huge deep gorges, snow-topped mountains in Idaho and finally Montana, then the Big Sky.
Warned of incoming storms, we get lucky and have sun and mainly blue sky. We winterize in southern Utah and spend the next 3 days in hotels in Provo, Idaho Falls and Great Falls. The latter by the rivers so we stop driving early, and take a walk along the banks and enjoy some sun. We wake Apr 14 to sub-zero temperatures, which drop even lower to 27 as we cross the continental divide for the third time in two days. Then down into the beautiful forks of the Missouri river winding through idyllic valleys and gorges - definitely huntin, fishin and shootin country here. The daytime temp climbs to 48, then 55, but with sun it feels better.
Warned of incoming storms, we get lucky and have sun and mainly blue sky. We winterize in southern Utah and spend the next 3 days in hotels in Provo, Idaho Falls and Great Falls. The latter by the rivers so we stop driving early, and take a walk along the banks and enjoy some sun. We wake Apr 14 to sub-zero temperatures, which drop even lower to 27 as we cross the continental divide for the third time in two days. Then down into the beautiful forks of the Missouri river winding through idyllic valleys and gorges - definitely huntin, fishin and shootin country here. The daytime temp climbs to 48, then 55, but with sun it feels better.
Phoenix - Berrett hospitality & half of Calgary...
Nancy & Colin are here for a month north of Phoenix in Sun City Grand so we reroute to pay them a visit. They are in a lovely residential area on the golf course, but we hit the coldest day on record for that time of year! Sheesh. It's a high of 45 and freezing when we rise. Then the rain comes! The only thing for it, of course, is more retail therapy at the nearby outlet mall. They give me 1.5 hours to power shop and I managed to do just that. Meanwhile, Ted and Colin buy shoes and run into the Robinsons and Fawcetts from the ski club! They are renting a place about 5 minutes from C&N, but we don't have time now to visit with them. They have also met up with the Halligeys (in Tucson) and Crombies (in Phoenix) from the ski club. I guess some of us could have had the wind-up party down here. There's an idea for future years...
April 5, A surprise visit...
We are 5 miles from the Mexican border in an isolated national park. We have a liesurely morning, take off later for a hike in the park, Ted is slightly ahead as I shoot some photos, a car stops, and out steps Bonnie and Surinder Khanna, our neighbors from Calgary, members of our ski and wine clubs! Talk about coincidence, it was meant to be! We have a lovely short visit, swap war stories and suggestions, they take off for the 40 mile drive back to their RV site and we take our walk. Amazing!
Next day, we do the 21 mile scenic drive over dirt roads, fantastic views, but as we had a maybe "wetback" come by begging for food at our campsite this morning, and ran into another lone Mexican at the half-way point in our drive also asking us for something?, we don't feel comfortable to leave the RV and go hiking in the desert. Probably just hungry guys but as one of the rangers was shot by back-country druggies in this park a few years back, we just feel safer enjoying the drive.
One of the interesting things about a country at war with its neighbors (keeping Mexicans out...) after I reported the guy begging at our campsite, they sent the helicopter over for many flights and the rangers circled our fairly isolated part of the camping area. As Ted says, you probably just cost the border patrol a few thousand $$$s.
Next day we head north through serious US air space, with huge fighter jets doing complicated manoevres just above us, very impressive, probably getting ready to help out our trusty soldiers in Afghanistan. Sadly, we receive a note from Deidre this week to say Mik is shipping out to Afghanistan again soon. I guess that's his job but I don't have to like it...He and Aggie had another baby boy in March so it's going to be hard on her when he leaves, as Antonio just turned one!
Next day, we do the 21 mile scenic drive over dirt roads, fantastic views, but as we had a maybe "wetback" come by begging for food at our campsite this morning, and ran into another lone Mexican at the half-way point in our drive also asking us for something?, we don't feel comfortable to leave the RV and go hiking in the desert. Probably just hungry guys but as one of the rangers was shot by back-country druggies in this park a few years back, we just feel safer enjoying the drive.
One of the interesting things about a country at war with its neighbors (keeping Mexicans out...) after I reported the guy begging at our campsite, they sent the helicopter over for many flights and the rangers circled our fairly isolated part of the camping area. As Ted says, you probably just cost the border patrol a few thousand $$$s.
Next day we head north through serious US air space, with huge fighter jets doing complicated manoevres just above us, very impressive, probably getting ready to help out our trusty soldiers in Afghanistan. Sadly, we receive a note from Deidre this week to say Mik is shipping out to Afghanistan again soon. I guess that's his job but I don't have to like it...He and Aggie had another baby boy in March so it's going to be hard on her when he leaves, as Antonio just turned one!
Apr 5 Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument
We take advantage of the fact we have time to spare back in the south to visit another splendid but isolated park. It's a 3 hour drive west and south through the dry and dusty O'odham Indian Reserve. There's a sign of prosperity at the central 'town' and we find out why when we hit the eastern edge of the reserve and there is the Casino!
Oh, and 'Why' is the name of the first settlement off the reserve! (Must get a photo of that.)
This is a vast beautifully preserved area north and south of the Mexican border of Sonora desert at its finest. David Parsons, eat your heart out! Our camp site is idyllic and there are few people in this park. We pass 20 border patrol, police, park ranger cars on the way here. We feel very safe...There is a border station just 5 miles down the road, but we are not tempted to cross and take a look.
We watch the most amazing sunset and sunrise here. Also Ted finally took some photos of my doing my TaiChi against the desert. I try to practice every day, it's a good way to keep fit and breathe in this really clear air. En route here yesterday, we pass Kitt Observatory, one of the clearest places in the US to view the constellations.
The ocotillo cactus are all in full bloom with deep red flowers, attracting birds, bees and hummers. Other small birds call around. Huge turkey vultures soar and yesterday we saw a red tailed hawk hunting by the road. Small families of quail chatter in our bushes and peck away at anything at ground level.
We have seen the Organ Pipe cactus trees before on the Baja peninsula in Mexico, but they are impressive and huge here. Sadly with the cold and lack of rain, few of the huge saguaros have yet bloomed with the huge white flowers that attract so many birds and insects.
It really is beautiful here. Ted is much happier in quiet desert parks than at the busy ocean and we happily sit and read, listening to the sounds of the desert.
This morning we had very much sought-after rain, and hope to see everything now sprout and glow as a result. Their rainfall is way down and the early February freeze has killed many of the palm trees in this area, so everyone is hoping for a wet spring now.
Oh, and 'Why' is the name of the first settlement off the reserve! (Must get a photo of that.)
This is a vast beautifully preserved area north and south of the Mexican border of Sonora desert at its finest. David Parsons, eat your heart out! Our camp site is idyllic and there are few people in this park. We pass 20 border patrol, police, park ranger cars on the way here. We feel very safe...There is a border station just 5 miles down the road, but we are not tempted to cross and take a look.
We watch the most amazing sunset and sunrise here. Also Ted finally took some photos of my doing my TaiChi against the desert. I try to practice every day, it's a good way to keep fit and breathe in this really clear air. En route here yesterday, we pass Kitt Observatory, one of the clearest places in the US to view the constellations.
The ocotillo cactus are all in full bloom with deep red flowers, attracting birds, bees and hummers. Other small birds call around. Huge turkey vultures soar and yesterday we saw a red tailed hawk hunting by the road. Small families of quail chatter in our bushes and peck away at anything at ground level.
We have seen the Organ Pipe cactus trees before on the Baja peninsula in Mexico, but they are impressive and huge here. Sadly with the cold and lack of rain, few of the huge saguaros have yet bloomed with the huge white flowers that attract so many birds and insects.
It really is beautiful here. Ted is much happier in quiet desert parks than at the busy ocean and we happily sit and read, listening to the sounds of the desert.
This morning we had very much sought-after rain, and hope to see everything now sprout and glow as a result. Their rainfall is way down and the early February freeze has killed many of the palm trees in this area, so everyone is hoping for a wet spring now.
Apr 4 Back to Tucson and hot showers!
It still gets cold at night in the desert here. It was 45 overnight, back into our sleeping bags with the silk duvet on overnight. However, by day, sun comes up and it's 88 before too long and we are seeking shade and sunblock. Many of these isolated parks don't have showers but we have a mobile bathroom now which helps!
One good thing about retracing your steps is you return to the great French bakery (pain au chocolate, macaroons, cheese rolls, ahhhh) and SunFoods specialty grocery store (huge scallops.) Strangely even though we were back a couple of days, we don't zero in on Trader Joe's, as we are back into that great grocery store territory here again.
Careful about amassing too much now, as we'll be crossing the border for home in a week or so and don't want any produce or questionable wine overload. We had a pathetic border crossing last year into BC with 3 bottles of wine more than our limit, causing a half hour delay and search of our RV at the border. Ridiculous, and they charged Ted 100% duty, i.e. $50 on $50 worth of wine!
It's too hot to cook so I rescue the Thai chicken noodles and basmati rice from the freezer and zap dinner in 5 minutes. Glad I had those.
One good thing about retracing your steps is you return to the great French bakery (pain au chocolate, macaroons, cheese rolls, ahhhh) and SunFoods specialty grocery store (huge scallops.) Strangely even though we were back a couple of days, we don't zero in on Trader Joe's, as we are back into that great grocery store territory here again.
Careful about amassing too much now, as we'll be crossing the border for home in a week or so and don't want any produce or questionable wine overload. We had a pathetic border crossing last year into BC with 3 bottles of wine more than our limit, causing a half hour delay and search of our RV at the border. Ridiculous, and they charged Ted 100% duty, i.e. $50 on $50 worth of wine!
It's too hot to cook so I rescue the Thai chicken noodles and basmati rice from the freezer and zap dinner in 5 minutes. Glad I had those.
April 2 - Arizona
... and huge rock pinnacles at Chiricahua
We take advantage of advice we got from Park Rangers at Saguaro National Park in Tucson to visit this little-known national park in SE Arizona. Camping is idyllic on a dry river bed in huge alligator pines (the bark looks like skin.) Few people are here, the hiking is splendid and views are spectacular. Giant rhyolite rocks formed from ancient volcanic ash have been weathered into massive pillars, canyons, grottos. It's like a mini-Bryce Canyon in rock.
This is Geronimo and Cochise country, the real stuff of Indian legends. It's also birding country and Mexic and bluebirds adopt us for the 3 days we are there, hoping unsuccessfully for a handout. A family from Tucson have taken their kids out of school to come for a long weekend and like kids everywhere, the 8 year old girl and 10 year old boy are having so much fun without any electronic devices at all!
The national parks all have great A/V presentations, afternoon and evening lectures at the campgrounds, wonderful visitor centres with wonderful books and gift items. I often stock up for the famous Foster Xmas goody bags, and am not disappointed here.
We take advantage of advice we got from Park Rangers at Saguaro National Park in Tucson to visit this little-known national park in SE Arizona. Camping is idyllic on a dry river bed in huge alligator pines (the bark looks like skin.) Few people are here, the hiking is splendid and views are spectacular. Giant rhyolite rocks formed from ancient volcanic ash have been weathered into massive pillars, canyons, grottos. It's like a mini-Bryce Canyon in rock.
This is Geronimo and Cochise country, the real stuff of Indian legends. It's also birding country and Mexic and bluebirds adopt us for the 3 days we are there, hoping unsuccessfully for a handout. A family from Tucson have taken their kids out of school to come for a long weekend and like kids everywhere, the 8 year old girl and 10 year old boy are having so much fun without any electronic devices at all!
The national parks all have great A/V presentations, afternoon and evening lectures at the campgrounds, wonderful visitor centres with wonderful books and gift items. I often stock up for the famous Foster Xmas goody bags, and am not disappointed here.
April 1 - Swift visit to Las Cruces again
Yesterday we decided to take the south and western Rockies route home to stay in the hot country as long as possible. Denver is stil having snow so the Eastern Rockies is looking, well, rocky for a return trip. Calgary is having late winter storms, 3 feet of snow in some people's backyards, not keen to go back to that. Glad our guy is clearing snow through April too. We meet many Canadians on the road here, we are all refugees from the white country...
We were happy to be back at Las Cruces, staying south of town in old Mesilla, historic centre preserved into boutiques and restaurants around the pretty main plaza and church. We revisit the Gold Eagle for great 'award winning' margaritas (as much as $12 for Patron based tequila) and great Mexican food. The best chiles rellenos we've seen yet. Pity no time to go north to A/C is back in business.
Driving through El Paso and skirting Juarez (murder capital of the US) we see the wealth of El Paso against the shanty towns over the Rio Grande of Cuidad Juarez, the factory town where many women go missing every year.
El Paso is one huge conurbation, very prosperous looking, and later we drive past miles and miles of cattle feedlots to supply all those hamburgers.
We have passed uneventfully through many Border Police checks. They ask if everyone in the vehicle is a US Citizen then wave us through. However, there are lights, cameras, many vehicles, holding centres, etc, proof that they are policing the Mexican border vigorously now. Few tourists are venturing south any more, too many bad experiences. Ted goes into a $10 haircut place on the outskirst of Austin and is told the hairdresser is too afraid to go home any more to San Luis Potosi to visit her parents. Sad, as we have had some wonderful trips but just not worth crossing the border any more. Flying in is OK to the resort areas of the Yucatan and West Coast, driving in is not recommended now.
Oh, it's April 1, according to the Calgary Herald, Westjet announced they're filling the cabins with helium as it's lighten than hydrogen in future. Yeah, we'll be on Lotusland mode when we fly with them in May to LA! I told Ted the RV owners tried to charge us $30 as we left, for the vet bill for feeding their cat bits of our seafood, he fell for it! Duh.
Before we leave Nee Mexico I pick up one of the famous Ristras, hanging chile bundles, from Hatch, just up the road from Las Cruces. One chile serves a whole salsa, beware of heat!
We were happy to be back at Las Cruces, staying south of town in old Mesilla, historic centre preserved into boutiques and restaurants around the pretty main plaza and church. We revisit the Gold Eagle for great 'award winning' margaritas (as much as $12 for Patron based tequila) and great Mexican food. The best chiles rellenos we've seen yet. Pity no time to go north to A/C is back in business.
Driving through El Paso and skirting Juarez (murder capital of the US) we see the wealth of El Paso against the shanty towns over the Rio Grande of Cuidad Juarez, the factory town where many women go missing every year.
El Paso is one huge conurbation, very prosperous looking, and later we drive past miles and miles of cattle feedlots to supply all those hamburgers.
We have passed uneventfully through many Border Police checks. They ask if everyone in the vehicle is a US Citizen then wave us through. However, there are lights, cameras, many vehicles, holding centres, etc, proof that they are policing the Mexican border vigorously now. Few tourists are venturing south any more, too many bad experiences. Ted goes into a $10 haircut place on the outskirst of Austin and is told the hairdresser is too afraid to go home any more to San Luis Potosi to visit her parents. Sad, as we have had some wonderful trips but just not worth crossing the border any more. Flying in is OK to the resort areas of the Yucatan and West Coast, driving in is not recommended now.
Oh, it's April 1, according to the Calgary Herald, Westjet announced they're filling the cabins with helium as it's lighten than hydrogen in future. Yeah, we'll be on Lotusland mode when we fly with them in May to LA! I told Ted the RV owners tried to charge us $30 as we left, for the vet bill for feeding their cat bits of our seafood, he fell for it! Duh.
Before we leave Nee Mexico I pick up one of the famous Ristras, hanging chile bundles, from Hatch, just up the road from Las Cruces. One chile serves a whole salsa, beware of heat!
March 31 - Fort Stockton and Texas history
There are all sorts of reminders of the Butterfield Stage Coach route and Forts to protect the settlers from maruading Indian bands. We stay at historic Fort Stockton where you can tour the fort and see how the soldiers lived. It's in the middle of nowhere, warnings everywhere to look out for dust storms and zero visibility for long stretches when dust storms blow in. You can imagine Steinbeck's The Grapes of Wrath by the edge of the road...Armadas of motor homes now visit, people in 40 foot land yachts, folks afraid to travel on their own without a 'handler" and similar rigs. We were twice turned away from RV parks because we were 'too small' at 22ft. Yippee.
March 18, Austin, capital of Texas
Austin, capital of Texas and world capital of music?
Texans pride themselves on world bests but we will have to believe it. We stayed south of town and found everything a good drive away. It took us about 3 days to find everything, at which time we left. The road system is mind-boggling, a spaghetti of overpass over overpass, I guess that's where the oil tax money goes. They are still building overpasses there, despite talking of laying off teachers and cutting budgets 25%.
The downtown Capitol core is a lovely mix of historic yellow sandstone buildings, many beautifully restored and high-rise city scape of lovely modern buildings, mostly banks. Several 'gatherings' outside the capital were disputing cuts for education and banning texting while driving. Both Senate and Representative houses were in session but we were able to visit both houses and see how Texas is ruled!
Driving home, the sun has come out, it's stinking hot and we spot an outdoor beer parlor, U-turn and get back there. It's Doc's Motor Court Bar, a garage turned into a bar. Yeah. We're obviously near one of the universities, as it's packed with students and locals with their dogs. And why not, with $1 chicken or beef tacos and lots of cold beer.
Leaving Austin we went up through Hill Country, supposedly the best part of Texas. Wild flowers are now blooming beside the road, and cotton, pecans, cattle and oil/gas wells and collection centres were evident. Goats and sheep make this the US capital for wool and mohair production too. Wish we could find local goat cheese but no.
"Jesus is the boss on the cross"
"Keep Austin Weird"
"J (heart)U" - yup, you're reminded there's lots of religion in Texas all right. At the next RV park, the WiFi password is godblessyou. We're saved!
Austin was a great town for finding all the things we needed, do the laundry, central RV park, wash the RV, get RV parts, some retail therapy (clothes for my cruise at Chicos), and of course, a visit to a genuine out-in-the-boons Texas BBQ. For $20 we had dinner of ribs, sausage, brisket, coleslaw, potato salad, local beer and, of course, pecan pie. The weather was cool, positively cold overnight (45) but then next day sun and 87.
Texans pride themselves on world bests but we will have to believe it. We stayed south of town and found everything a good drive away. It took us about 3 days to find everything, at which time we left. The road system is mind-boggling, a spaghetti of overpass over overpass, I guess that's where the oil tax money goes. They are still building overpasses there, despite talking of laying off teachers and cutting budgets 25%.
The downtown Capitol core is a lovely mix of historic yellow sandstone buildings, many beautifully restored and high-rise city scape of lovely modern buildings, mostly banks. Several 'gatherings' outside the capital were disputing cuts for education and banning texting while driving. Both Senate and Representative houses were in session but we were able to visit both houses and see how Texas is ruled!
Driving home, the sun has come out, it's stinking hot and we spot an outdoor beer parlor, U-turn and get back there. It's Doc's Motor Court Bar, a garage turned into a bar. Yeah. We're obviously near one of the universities, as it's packed with students and locals with their dogs. And why not, with $1 chicken or beef tacos and lots of cold beer.
Leaving Austin we went up through Hill Country, supposedly the best part of Texas. Wild flowers are now blooming beside the road, and cotton, pecans, cattle and oil/gas wells and collection centres were evident. Goats and sheep make this the US capital for wool and mohair production too. Wish we could find local goat cheese but no.
"Jesus is the boss on the cross"
"Keep Austin Weird"
"J (heart)U" - yup, you're reminded there's lots of religion in Texas all right. At the next RV park, the WiFi password is godblessyou. We're saved!
Austin was a great town for finding all the things we needed, do the laundry, central RV park, wash the RV, get RV parts, some retail therapy (clothes for my cruise at Chicos), and of course, a visit to a genuine out-in-the-boons Texas BBQ. For $20 we had dinner of ribs, sausage, brisket, coleslaw, potato salad, local beer and, of course, pecan pie. The weather was cool, positively cold overnight (45) but then next day sun and 87.
March 26 - Still on the 'Redneck Riviera'
We take a drive up the coast to see the small ports of Rockport and Fulton. One very developed with enormous homes and huge boats parked on their docks, the other laid back with the shrimp trawlers and gulls circling for scraps off boats as they come in. Lunch of oyster stew (tons of cream!) and crab stuffed shrimp and local beers, overlooking the trawler harbor, is great. Dinner of red snapper caught that day and oysters is good too.
We enjoyed lunch with Carlos and Laura (Don Druery's niece), who live in Corpus Christi and were a mine of local lore.
Mornings were generally foggy and sometimes didn't clear until early afternoon, so 6 days at the beach satisfied my need for sea, sand and all things marine. The UofTexas Marine centre was an interesting visit, but no dolphins visit, disappointing too.
We enjoyed lunch with Carlos and Laura (Don Druery's niece), who live in Corpus Christi and were a mine of local lore.
Mornings were generally foggy and sometimes didn't clear until early afternoon, so 6 days at the beach satisfied my need for sea, sand and all things marine. The UofTexas Marine centre was an interesting visit, but no dolphins visit, disappointing too.
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